There are crisp, monochromatic suiting separates over colorful, printed second-skin tops and leggings; flowy, calf-skimming dresses and skirts paired with tight graphic turtlenecks and heavy platform shoes made for stomping; geometric knit collars on cocoon coats. Black and navy are linked with jeweled tones and pastels — purples, blues, greens and yellows — while sequins are paired with slick leather. Models walk through rooms that are decked in bright faux fur and marble.
It goes beyond simply juxtaposing two seemingly opposite textures, though. The collection feels almost like an exercise in discovery: By simply looking at it from a different angle or by peeling back a layer, you find a brand-new fabric, print or embellishment you hadn’t noticed before — furry vests draped over to reveal a pink sequined lining, black dresses that seemed to slice open across the front or down the back into a knit floral pattern.
Indeed, that was the intention: In the show notes, the brand explained that Simons and Prada drew from “the idea of change and transformation, opening possibilities” to create Fall 2021. “A fusion between disparate themes and intents mirrors the nature of humanity: a belief in the fact that men and women each hold the masculine and feminine within themselves. This collection explores the space that exists between conventional polar opposites — the point between simplicity and complexity, elegance and practicality, limitation and release, transmuted.”
Moreover, the silhouettes — Prada classics like cocoon coats and suiting, as well as more contemporary styles, like bomber jackets, printed under-layers and jumpsuits — are meant to be versatile, literally and metaphorically: “Clothes are translated from one intent to another — ornament can become functional, the pragmatic can become decorative,” the brand wrote. “There is a shift between their essential languages. The obvious is re-engineered, so evening-gowns become utilitarian jumpsuits and tailored coats are proposed in bright color or executed in paillettes, transforming and mutating between antonymous purposes.”
Other stand-out pieces include a range of printed catsuits that need to make their way to Tracee Ellis Ross’s wardrobe immediately and a parade of sequined overcoats that will be a hot commodity among the street-style crowd.
The accessories, as always, are a highlight. The brand continues to bank on the popularity of its inverted triangle logo, putting it everywhere from earrings to cuff bags to gloves. The heavy-looking, made-for-stomping boots offer a sophisticated utilitarian footwear proposition for fall — or even just an aspirational upgrade for anyone who yearned for Litas in the late aughts and early ’10s. (Me, I’m “anyone.”)
See every single look from Prada’s Fall 2021 collection in the gallery below.